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03/03/2015

Mother's day 2015: Dolce and Gabbana style during Milan Fashion Week

It isn’t Mothering Sunday until May in Italy – at least, not officially. But Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana care naught for that kind of stuff. The Sunday of every Milanese womenswear week is traditionally Dolce day, but this time they made it mother’s day, too. “Viva la Mamma” they called their show – in English, it translates oddly to “Hurray for Mum” – less Italian romance, more the post-war jolly hockey sticks Enid Blyton school of British children’s literature.

The helm of Dolce and Gabbana’s catwalk has been littered with human props for the past couple of seasons – this time, a group of D&G-clad mothers clutched their listless children. It looked a bit like a paediatrician’s waiting room.

Despite all the mamma stuff, I doubt Dolce and Gabbana had anything like ticking biological clocks on their mind when designing this collection. They just saw their mammas as another unmistakable symbol of Italy – 79% of the country’s young adults (18-29) still reside at home, the highest percentage in Europe.

“Viva la Mamma” is also the title of a song by Neopolitan crooner Edoardo Bennato. Dolce and Gabbana translated it into fourteen languages, and presented it as their press notes. Referencing postwar beauty queens and fifties-styles, it was almost a blueprint for their collection. These clothes, clutching at the waist and oomphing out the breasts and hips in a fecund hourglass shape, reminded me of that era, of the styles that Christian Dior turned the world on to, convincing them they looked new. In actual fact, sociologists have analysed that, in part, it was reactionary, reinforcing women’s roles as mother (via that fertile figure emphasis) and ideologically banishing women from the working roles they adopted during the Second World War.

A mother and child from Dolce and Gabbana's autumn/winter 2015 show

Photo: black bridesmaid dresses

A mother and child from Dolce and Gabbana's autumn/winter 2015 show

Again, I doubt Dolce and Gabbana were thinking philosophical thoughts about the duality of modern women’s roles. Leave that sort of thinking to Miuccia Prada. They just ran with the visual of Big Mamma Italiano, cleavage spilling out of her her midriff-hugging, wiggle-skirted dress (the model Bianca Balti, heavily pregnant, was the only exception to their waist-whittled rule). Were there any trousers? I didn’t spot a single pair.

The celebration of souped-up, sexualised Italian womanhood was, actually, business as usual in the standard Dolce mould. It almost could be a mould, turned out as it is in different materials each season. The suits and dresses were studded with glitzy, Schiaparelli-ish buttons this time, a couple of inside-out fur coats, like your mamma’s mamma’s tattered mink requisitioned.

A few evening dresses were decorated with the children’s scribbles – houses, families – that cropped up on the invite too. The latter were apparently the designers’ own, from their childhood. They reminded me of the embroideries across Angelina Jolie’s wedding dress.

The photographic prints, standardly splashed on shifts, were for this round of Madonna and child, sometimes graffitied with a beaded word, say “Amore,” like a defaced Tuscan altarpiece. Roses clambering across bodies recalled mother’s day bouquets, or maybe the floral-festooned “Mother” tattoos inked on many a bicep in slightly dodgy homage.

Perhaps that’s looking too deep. Maybe flowers were just their because they looked pretty, because women like them, because they will sell. This Dolce and Gabbana collection had plenty of energy, and lots and lots of distraction – models toting borrowed bambinos, negotiating the catwalk in those slender pencil skirts, juggling child on one hip and, perhaps, their their giant Dolce and Gabbana “Mamma” bags on the other.

See more at www.sheindressau.com

07:52 Publié dans Mode | Tags : fashion week | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

31/05/2014

Graduate Fashion Week 2014

I have always been amazed at the graduates across the UK who, generation after generation, continually wow us with their fresh ideas, creativity and mind-blowing talent. These graduates are the lifeblood and future of the creative industry.

I have for a long time been a supporter of fashion innovation and creative thinking and, having been director of Graduate Fashion Week for the past three years, my passion on this topic continues to grow. Now in its 23rd year, I am extremely proud to be part of such an incredible charity where the opportunities and new schemes being put in place are bigger and better than ever.

2014-05-30-GraduateFashionWeeksneakpreviewshoot.DesignbyChloeWoodgateColchesterSchoolofArtGFW201411.jpg

Picture: dusty pink bridesmaid dress

The difficulties young people face finding jobs after graduating is phenomenal with nearly 40% of students struggling for six months to find employment. It is important that we do all we can to nurture and celebrate their skills.

This is the very reason the Graduate Fashion Week Charity was set up 23 years ago - to help young people make that all important transition into the industry. Over the years the charity has helped 10,000s of graduates from universities and colleges from right across the UK to do just this. I am very proud of the fact that we have also helped 1,000s of school students see the opportunities available to them and enable them to make the right decisions for their futures.

The George Gold Award provided by our title sponsor, who offers the winner an internship at George House will ensure the graduate is closely mentored and guided during their time with the company. Helping young people being prepared for employment and launching their own businesses is vitally important - not just for them but also for Britain.

We are extremely excited to be at a brand new venue for this year, The Old Truman Brewery. The move signals a new era for graduate fashion, setting us in the heat of one of London's most vibrant and creative areas. The location is sensational and the space allows us to expand the workshop and atelier areas of the exhibition, as well as showcase the graduate collections on some very cool catwalks. I look forward to seeing many of you over the course of the weekend to support the new faces of the fashion industry.

Read more at lace wedding dresses

09:26 Publié dans Mode | Tags : fashion week | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)